German Jacket - buttons and false button holes.

Yes, I'm still working on the German Jacket, this one is certainly going to turn out amazing! Although the buttons are time consuming, the small details in an outfit are what make or break your look.



If you've re-enacted for long, or just starting you'll either know or be soon to find out that poorly made button holes, an elastic mob cap, 1980 glasses, or running shoes can take a silk outfit and make it look like dirt. PLEASE don't make the mistake of skimping on the small things.






So, the sleeves and wing cuffs are on the gown. I now have to add the buttons and button holes on the sleeves. as you can see here <>

So, have you made a button hole before? They are the devil.

I'll lay it out as best I can here for you.

Step 1. Mark the position of your button hole. You'll want to use a lead (graphite) pencil or marking chalk. Mark a line where you would like your button hole to be. Test it against the button. Make sure that the button will it through the hole. Since the material and stitching will cause the hole to be smaller, I suggest making the button hole about 1/4" larger than the button. For decorative button holes such as the one in this garment I'll be making the button holes about 1.5". DO NOT CUT THIS LINE.

Step 2. run a small, closely stitched line about 1/8" away from the line, all the way around. This will hold the material and lining together and prevent it front shifting, or becoming misshapen.

Step 3. Now you can start cutting your material. Using a very small, sharp pair of scissors cut along your button hole line. If you're making a decorative button hole cut only enough of the button hole line that your button can fit in. The rest of the button hole is simply decorative and should NOT be touched.

Step 4. Get your needle ready. I would suggest using button twist/thread. You can get this at your local store. It's most likely polyester but in small places like button holes it's OK to use. You can find silk and cotton but it's more expensive and most likely have to order it online. A few online sutler have linen button twist. If using cotton or linen I would suggest having some bees wax to run your thread through so it works better for you. Using a color opposite from your material will make the button hole more decorative and stand out. I am using a darker brown on this jacket as the button holes are decorative but I don't want them to take away or be the main focus.

Step 5. Don't knot your thread. A knot will cause a bump in your button hole! Insert your needle between the two layers making sure to leave a small length of thread inside. Bring your needle out, to the main fabric (where you want your stitch to start), outside of the running stitch around the button hole. -I like starting 1/2 way down the side of the button hole so I'm able to cleanly sew the ends.-

Step 6. Now comes the tricky part. I'll try to explain it but I'm sorry if it is horrible. Insert your needle to the back parallel to where your needle came out. Don't pull the thread tight, bring your needle to the front, through the button hole and passing through the loop of thread. Now pull tight. Again insert your needle (from front to back) parallel to your last stitch and again bring it to the front through the button hole and passing through the loop of thread. Continue doing this all along your button hole. If you're making a decorative button and have no more hole to sew through, simply bring your needle up through the material to the front on the middle line (button hole line that you previously drew) and catch the loop. Continue this until the end.

Step 7. Once you've got a side done and at the end, make a stitch at a 90 degree angle instead of parallel and catch the loop again. To get to the other side make another 90 degree angle and continue on as in step 6.

Step 7. On the opposite side of the button hole, if you're making a decorative button, continue Step 6, but instead of coming up through the button hole, bring your needle to the front, meeting the opposite side of the button hole on the middle line.

Step 8. When you're button hole is done and you're happy with it, bring your needle the back of the garment. Using the needle weave your thread through some of the braid that has formed at the edge of the button hole. Then pull your needle through the middle of the material and up about 1" away. Pull on the thread bunch the material a little, snip if off. when you smooth out your material the end will disappeare into the material. Your end is not hidden. this is a great thing to do after knotting anything when sewing to prevent little tails all over the place, or cutting the tails too short and ruining the knot.

If you have any other questions PLEASE feel free to contact me and ask questions. I have no problem at all with helping you out! Good luck guys. I'll be continuing work on this brown jacket and making my 28 decorative button holes.

Sign of the Thistle Historical Clothing Co.
www.bonniemissflora.etsy.com

Cotton/linen Stays June 4-? 2009

Hello all,

I've started making a set of stays and I thought that you might like to see them, and their progress.

They are fully boned and contain 74 German spring steel bones, 48 hand turned button holes, 1.5meters of cotton ticking, 4.4 meters of linen twill tape, .5 meters of light blue linen. This set of stays are front and back lacing with no straps. The customer this is made for works in the UK at a small museum as an interpreter. If it seems like a lot to any of you its for a lady with a larger bust. Her measurements are

bust - 51"

waist - 40"

Center back torso length - 17"

Front Neckline Depth - 14"

bust to waist - 6.5"

Total torso - 40"

Side torso length - 10"

the stays measure
Bust - 38"
Waist - 26"
Center Front length to waist - 12"
Center side length to waist - 9"

The tabs at the bottom are approx. 2" long and rest over the waist to help support up the petticoats and skirts of the gown.

I use 1/4" German steel boning ordered from Farthingales, a really great company in Ontario, Canada. This boning doesn't rust, bend or break - it's very heavy, however.

Cotton thread is all that I use. 100% cotton quilters thread. It's stronger than regular thread and sews almost like its pre-waxed. My button hole thread is 40% polyester/60% cotton - I know, I know its got poly in it... I hit myself all the time for it but its the only thing I can find that sews remotely well.

I received this order quite a few weeks ago but due to circumstances the customer had back surgery and life of course takes over. We've both finally come back to this and have got the measurements and started this project.

I started with drafting the pattern - this took about 3 hours. I use a material with little red dots spaced 1" apart for my draft paper. this can be bought at any local sewing store and works great for drafting patterns.
I made this corset from 3 pcs for each side, L&R. being for a larger busted woman drafting these was a little harder than I had done before. It was a great challenge but it looks like it cam out great - you tell me.

I cut out the pattern and cut out 4 of each piece, 12 pcs of fabric in total. I then sewed 2pcs so I had a base for the boning channels. I now has 6 pcs, 3 L, 3R to put boning in. I drafted the boning channels and penciled them on.

I then machine sewed the channels for the corset. haha I think that waiting for my hubby to get home from work (he was on duty -Army- today... Saturday... I guess I can't complain. Really puts things in perspective when today is June 6th of all days) so he can use the bolt cutters to cut the boning for me.... I can't do it at all! I still have some to cut for the other side...

I've been working on one side more than the other, as you can see by the photo's I've got one side almost done. I then sewed the 3 pcs together Front, center, and back. The blue linen outer shell was then basted on the top along with the linen twill tape.

Then the dubious task of stitching on the cotton twill..... ugh. Anyone that has every sewn on any amount of lacing or twill tape - you share my pain.

Well its all done on one side and I started the button holes. As you can see by the photo's the back is done... 1/4 of the button holes done... I now I might go overboard in the holes, but I have found in my own wearing that stays feel more secure and lace better with a few more holes. I'd rather put one too many that you can skip, than not enough that you're feeling loose in your stays.

My fingers hurt now from all the feverish sewing. I'll have more in a few days when the stays are done and the other side is done.

ooouuuuccchhhhhh. off to try a few more button holes - it will probably turn into 5 then 6.... now I'm just procrastinating :P