At the Sign of the Thistle Historical Clothing

Gift certificate give away!

2012-05-24T09:03:00.001-07:00

Since the summer is upon us and we've begun dusting out our closets in preperation for the summers events, there is always those items that you mean to replace every year.... but never do.

This is your chance to fix that!!

How far would a $50.00 gift card to Sign of the Thistles web site go?! This can be used for anything in the shop - ready made, custom made ect. You can even re-gift the gift card if you'd like - although why you would want to give away that much re-enactment goodies is beyond me.

There are a number of ways to enter, the more times you enter, the better your chances of winning!

How to Enter the Drawing:

(Annonomous contacts, please leave your name and contact method)

1. Blog - Write about this giveaway in your own blog. Feel free to use images or information! Leave a link in the comments section of this post to qualify.

2. Tweet about the pre-sale or giveaway - be sure to leave a link to your tweet in the comments section of this post, so you are entered into the giveaway.

3. Facebook about the give away - Post a link to Sign of the Thistle Historical Clothing Co.on your Facebook page, and leave a comment on this post to enter the drawing.

4. Pin on Pinterest - pin any images of your favorite clothing from this blog or Sign of the Thistle Historical Clothing coLeave a link to your pin in the comments section to enter.

5. 'Like' on Facebook - like Sign of the Thistle's fan page on facebook. Leave your facebook name in the comments section to enter.

6. Share in ANY other way - share a link to Sign of the Thistle Historical Clothing cousing any other method, such as Digg, StumbleUpon, Google+, etc. Leave a comment on this post, so you are entered in the drawing.
------------------------------

*If you do all of these things, you will be entered each time, just leave as many comments on this post as places you shared.

The winner will be selected by random number generator on June 1st just one week from today, and will be sent their gift card June 2nd when the winner has been selected

*Please note, shipping charges for your destination are not covered by the gift card, however, all applicable taxes are.

Chickens!

2012-05-24T06:24:00.002-07:00

Hello all, once again, life has taken over and my blogging has been left to the wayside :( However, It's summer again and I've a little more time. My husband is finally home from all of his overseas military adventures and it's wonderful to have another hand around the house to keep the chaos in check.

I've recently acquired a number of chickens... I'm very conscious on where my food comes from and since moving to Ontario have not been able to eat the eggs offered in grocery stores. I can't stand the taste and they make me physically ill after eating them. So, we asked our neighbours what they think, and voila! We purchased 3 Lohmann hens from a farm that was closing down. They specialized in 'organic free range poultry'. For all of you who purchase these more expensive brown eggs from the store... I wouldn't bother paying the extra few dollars. 10,000 hens were crammed into about 5,0002ft They were pecked, broken and disgustingly dirty. They were classified as 'free Range' because of the 2 windows that allowed them a view of the sky. Never having set foot outside, in the grass, dust bathing or anything else a healthy happy chicken would do is commercial free range. However, it's a might better living conditions than your regular egg production enterprise (4-5 chickens in one wire 2'x2'x2' cage for their entire life... force fed and force production).
These are our ladies on the trip home!! Pretty rough, right?

What a sight! Murphy is in the back with hardly any neck feathers, Gerty is in the corner and George II is in the front.

We also purchased 8 chicks - 2 Barred rock (heritage breed), 2 Rhode Island Red (heritage breed) and 3 ISA Brown (commerical breed). The feed store messed up our order as I originally wanted more of the heritage breed and only 1 of the ISA brown to see how they do, but when I got there and they presented me with a tiny box full of even tinier fluffy chicks I took what they gave me and loved everyone one of them

I love this photo!!

I'm sure you all want to know names... Ruby, Ginger, Henny, Penny, Gorget, Spike, Queenie and Tiny.

The chicks were born April 2nd and are now almost 2 months old... they will start laying in another 2-3 months. With 3 chickens we get 3 eggs a day. 3x7=21 L-XL eggs/week. That is MORE than enough to feed us, our neighbours and some to friends. Their yoke is BRIGHT orange-red. They eat all of our fruit veggie left overs and give me wonderful amounts of fertilizer for the garden. They are NOT noisy and do not smell. As I live in NW Ontario we get frigidly cold winters and warm summers, the chickens do great under these conditions. With a little artificial light to keep them laying they are happy!! They now roll around the dirt, come running when they see the slop bucket and have this mad addiction to ants. They are a great addition to our family, backyard and it's wonderful knowing where your food comes from. Since we're in a neighbourhood we have to keep our chickens in a run and coop. They are not allowed to wonder around or they would be taken by either our dogs or some of the wildlife that lives around us. Their run is 6x12 - Loads of room for 11 happy chickens. I would highly suggest the keeping of backyard chickens to anyone I meet. what they give back in amusement, health and well being far outweigh the time needed to rake the poop or build the coop!

I've been trying to talk Jason into making up a crate for them so we can take the older ladies who are laying to an encampment!! I think it would be great and add such a flair of historical accuracy... however... they WOULD NOT end up in the pot...

New Website

2011-10-20T10:29:00.000-07:00

Hello all,

I'm introducing my new website! I've been having some issues with etsy and have finally canceled my site with them and made up a new one. Simply go to www.signofthethistle.com and you're there!! I'm still adding new items to get all my stock up there.

You'll see a couple really great new things. One - a contact form! You can finally contact me using your e-mail address without the annoying requirments of signing up for a third party website. Simply fill out the form, ask your question and I'll get back to you as soon as I can!

Two - a Guest book! Now you can sign in, let me know what you like, what you'd like to see, if you've had something made by me before or anything else! Please remember to sign into this, I love reading about my fans.

Three - Cafe Press shop - this is a great little site that you can purchase Sign of the thistle memrobelia - who doesn't want an AWESOME coffee mug with 'I (HEART) sign of the Thistle' slapped across it. There are also bumper stickers, canvass bags, t-shirts, little baby onsies ect. Cool??? clearly.

Four - ok -can you stand any more awesomeness?? yes. there are more than 3 awesome new things about my website. I love it. so - Four. - Photos - you can now see past projects, get ideas for new projects ect. I know when I buy online I love seeing past things they've made to ensure they will make what I'm wanting.

My site also comes in a mobile version. If you're out at an event or on the town you can browse and purchase from my site on your black berry, android or Iphone!

So - check out www.signofthethistle.com and let me know what you think!!

German Jacket - buttons and false button holes.

2010-06-24T08:24:00.000-07:00

Yes, I'm still working on the German Jacket, this one is certainly going to turn out amazing! Although the buttons are time consuming, the small details in an outfit are what make or break your look.

If you've re-enacted for long, or just starting you'll either know or be soon to find out that poorly made button holes, an elastic mob cap, 1980 glasses, or running shoes can take a silk outfit and make it look like dirt. PLEASE don't make the mistake of skimping on the small things.

So, the sleeves and wing cuffs are on the gown. I now have to add the buttons and button holes on the sleeves. as you can see here <>

So, have you made a button hole before? They are the devil.

I'll lay it out as best I can here for you.

Step 1. Mark the position of your button hole. You'll want to use a lead (graphite) pencil or marking chalk. Mark a line where you would like your button hole to be. Test it against the button. Make sure that the button will it through the hole. Since the material and stitching will cause the hole to be smaller, I suggest making the button hole about 1/4" larger than the button. For decorative button holes such as the one in this garment I'll be making the button holes about 1.5". DO NOT CUT THIS LINE.

Step 2. run a small, closely stitched line about 1/8" away from the line, all the way around. This will hold the material and lining together and prevent it front shifting, or becoming misshapen.

Step 3. Now you can start cutting your material. Using a very small, sharp pair of scissors cut along your button hole line. If you're making a decorative button hole cut only enough of the button hole line that your button can fit in. The rest of the button hole is simply decorative and should NOT be touched.

Step 4. Get your needle ready. I would suggest using button twist/thread. You can get this at your local store. It's most likely polyester but in small places like button holes it's OK to use. You can find silk and cotton but it's more expensive and most likely have to order it online. A few online sutler have linen button twist. If using cotton or linen I would suggest having some bees wax to run your thread through so it works better for you. Using a color opposite from your material will make the button hole more decorative and stand out. I am using a darker brown on this jacket as the button holes are decorative but I don't want them to take away or be the main focus.

Step 5. Don't knot your thread. A knot will cause a bump in your button hole! Insert your needle between the two layers making sure to leave a small length of thread inside. Bring your needle out, to the main fabric (where you want your stitch to start), outside of the running stitch around the button hole. -I like starting 1/2 way down the side of the button hole so I'm able to cleanly sew the ends.-

Step 6. Now comes the tricky part. I'll try to explain it but I'm sorry if it is horrible. Insert your needle to the back parallel to where your needle came out. Don't pull the thread tight, bring your needle to the front, through the button hole and passing through the loop of thread. Now pull tight. Again insert your needle (from front to back) parallel to your last stitch and again bring it to the front through the button hole and passing through the loop of thread. Continue doing this all along your button hole. If you're making a decorative button and have no more hole to sew through, simply bring your needle up through the material to the front on the middle line (button hole line that you previously drew) and catch the loop. Continue this until the end.

Step 7. Once you've got a side done and at the end, make a stitch at a 90 degree angle instead of parallel and catch the loop again. To get to the other side make another 90 degree angle and continue on as in step 6.

Step 7. On the opposite side of the button hole, if you're making a decorative button, continue Step 6, but instead of coming up through the button hole, bring your needle to the front, meeting the opposite side of the button hole on the middle line.

Step 8. When you're button hole is done and you're happy with it, bring your needle the back of the garment. Using the needle weave your thread through some of the braid that has formed at the edge of the button hole. Then pull your needle through the middle of the material and up about 1" away. Pull on the thread bunch the material a little, snip if off. when you smooth out your material the end will disappeare into the material. Your end is not hidden. this is a great thing to do after knotting anything when sewing to prevent little tails all over the place, or cutting the tails too short and ruining the knot.

If you have any other questions PLEASE feel free to contact me and ask questions. I have no problem at all with helping you out! Good luck guys. I'll be continuing work on this brown jacket and making my 28 decorative button holes.

Sign of the Thistle Historical Clothing Co.
www.bonniemissflora.etsy.com

German linen Jacket, 1750

2010-06-04T08:42:00.000-07:00

As I mentioned in my last post I am working on a couple of German jackets for a wonderful customer.

This next one I'm working on will complete the order. : >

It's a German wood cut c 1750 by an unknown author, titled "Eine Frau im Haup Gehend" or "A woman in the home".

It is being constructed from a beautiful brown linen/tan stripe. I purchased this linen from Wm Booth Draper (item number WLN327). I'll be lining the jacket with an oat color linen.

Similar to the other German jacket I had to create a pattern for this project as well. Patterns for many ethnic and unusual outfits can't be found and need to created. I didn't make a pattern that can be sold, it's not that put together by any means! I generally do my drafting very organically. I start with the lining material and use colored tailors chalk to mark my pattern out where I think each piece should be cut. I then measure it all again checking the numbers against the waist, bust, arm length, back length, side length etc. When I'm happy with that (there generally happens to be a number of lines in random colors.... it's pretty but time consuming!) I cut it all out and dry fit it to the dress dummy (for the amount that I talk about her, I have two, they really should be named... any thoughts?) If there are any adjustments I need to make I do it now. I then take the lining which has become by pattern and cut out the main material.

Although the two jackets look totally different their basic construction remains the same. Like the wool jacket I came out with 6 pieces for the bodice. 2 front pieces, 2 side pieces, 2 back pieces. I pick stitch along the seams to attach the lining to main material. Unlike the wool jacket, however, the sleeves on this are cut from one piece, like gowns of the period, and has only one seam running up the inside arm. This sleeve has a large cuff, but only reaches to below the elbow and is slightly more fitted than that of the blue wool jacket.

This jacket was a little more difficult than a regular jacket as it's not front closing and required robings down the front. Robings are a throwback to the Mantua and are used to hid pins and fixings of the gown. Almost 99% of gowns or jackets that fit with a stomacher should have robings. Because of this I had to be very careful to cut the front of the bodice as I wanted to make the robings right, they are precariously folded and are actually the same piece as the front.

As this jacket required covered buttons I of course had to make them! I use the same covered buttons you can purchase at your local fabric store, or at the request of the customer I can make them with a wooden or rag middle. For the buttons take some scraps of your material and position the cutting guide where you would like it. I generally don't center a pattern etc unless I'm copying an item that has it since buttons in the 18th century added detail but were not meant to be main focal points. Or, like the case of a polonaise, were both decorative and functional. Don't get me wrong, there are very decorative buttons, but these are covered buttons with no embroidery etc.... stay with me, stop thinking about all the shiny buttons!!

Now that you have all these little circles (for anyone that has quilted or crafted they look like the beginnings of yo-yos) take the smooth top part of the button and your little rubble mold. Place your material in the rubble mold, good side down. Place the smooth top portion of the button on top and push it into the mold. Then wrap all that extra fabric and just use your finger to push it into the back of the button. place the little back with the shank facing you and use the little hard blue plastic piece. This is placed over the back of the button, on a flat surface press down hard. You'll feel if the button snaps into place. You can see if the button is sitting wrong, if the button has bent etc. Please remember that thin fabrics may not work, thick wools will also not work. If you're using a more sheer material I take a little bit of high grade sand paper and buff the top of the button to get rid of some of that horrible sheen (it surprisingly does shine through the material). There buttons done!! I'll be making the buttons tonight, this jacket needs 26 of the little guys..... that will be my evening. I'm also going to try and make soap tonight - but that's a story for another day!

German wool Jacket, 1732

2010-06-04T06:23:00.000-07:00

Hello Everyone,

I know It's been a while since I posted something but my life has just been crazy. My fiancee deployed to Afghanistan at the beginning of May, I started my summer job at the museum and finished up my 2nd semester of my Museum studies diploma.... wow. If you haven't all noticed, I'm a big nerd!

So, A customer approached me a few months ago about making her some 18th century jackets. One from a wood cut and one from a painting by Pesne of Elizabeth Oberbuchler, a refugee from Salzburg, 1732. This post is about the painting and I'll do another when I'm completed the wood cut jacket.

I had to draft the pattern, I do this using a combination of my dress dummy, an 18th century jacket pattern, my quilting rulers, and good old know how.

After cutting out all the pieces of lining and dry fitting them to the dummy, I cut out the lining pieces.

The jacket is strange in that it's very much like a riding habit/man's waistcoat. I tried to do some research online and only found Mara Riley's web page (a valuable resource for any Scottish representations) which told me who the lady in the painting was, the date and what I basically already knew.

SO. the basic construction of this jacket was as basic as making any other jacket. The bodice and skirts are cut together. There is are 2 front pieces, 2 side pieces and 2 back pieces for a total of 6 pieces. Of course you'll have to have these same pieces cut out of the linen and main fabric. The sleeves are cut slightly curved like in a man's frock coat - and in two pieces; The top and bottom. The cuff is exactly like that used on a riding habit and cut in two pieces as well.

I first sew the lining together minus the sleeves, and the same thing for the main fabric. When it came to the skirts, I made sure to stop sewing at the waist to leave the skirts free. I then pin the lining and main material together, matching the seams and pick stitch so the bodice isn't bulky and fits properly. After this I turned under the edges of both the neckline and around the skirts, pick stitching around them.

I like sleeves making sleeves for some random reason and take great pleasure in making them up. The sleeves in this one have a regular cuff like that on a riding habit, but with the German influence and like in the painting we're adding linen twill tape (black) around the cuffs and collar edge. I'm not 100% sure why they did this and it's the only one that I've come across with this decorative edging added. I have seen it used as hem savers on petticoats, but never on a jacket. Please remember if you're going to copy this jacket to mention is German influence and lack of documentation on it's historical accuracy in the twill detail.

I laid the twill tape on after the neckline and skirts had been pick stitched. I then used black cotton thread and pick stitched it on as well. The jacket in the photo looks like it's been modified to close with hook and eyes. I hate hook and eyes in the 18th century, it's just as easy to use pins only pins keeps things closed better, are a little more forgiving if you're going to lace your stays looser and very removable.

After the entire bodice was done I finished up the sleeves with the twill detail and then sewed the sleeves onto the body. In the 18th century sleeve edges were not finished. They were left hanging in the bodice. Finishing the edge would add extra bulk at an area where any woman could tell you - it's not comfortable to have!!

So, the jacket is finally finished!! I put it on my dress dummy as I was a little ahead of myself to take some photo's and send it to the customer. The dummy didn't have any stays etc on it so the back is pulling slightly in a way that would not happen when it was on the customer.

Caraco Jacket - petticoat.

2009-08-08T07:36:00.000-07:00

Hello all,

I've finally moved into the new place and the dear hubby is back to work.. blowing things up.

I've been commisioned to make a fitted caraco jacket, stomacher and petticoat for a wonderful customer in the USA. She sent me the fabric, a fantastic printed cotton. Very period correct, beautiful. >>

At first, as always, washed the fabric in cold and dryed on hot. This prevents any shrinkage when the garment is washed. I've been many people spend hundreds of dollars on beautiful items only to have them shrink, stretch and pull after washing.

This garment is going to resemble one found on display at the V&A Museum. <<

Since the fabric is 45" wide using the usual method of petticoat construction would obviously not work, besides the directional nap. In this case I used three lengths. She wanted the petticoat to be 35" long. So I used 3 length 45" x 35". Because of the nap, I matched the pattern and hide the seams as best I could in them and the pleats. The front is unobstructed, there is one seam at each hip and one at the center back... very sneaky if I do say so myself.

I then pleated the waistband into the desired width and basted the pleats. When making a petticoat don't forget to leave a large box pleat at the front center and a smaller one at the back center. When the pleats were basted the pocket slits had to be sewn. Rule of thumb on an average size person is about 8" for the pocket slit. Because the slit wasn't on a seam as they usually are, I had to be very careful about stitching the bottom to re-enforce and prevent the fabric from tearing.

When the pocket slits are done, I used 1/2" cotton twill tape in a natural color (19" on either side + waist measurment) and whip stiched one side down. to prevent the twill from fraing, cutting a dove tail in the end really helps, and makes it look pretty. Even though using a whip stitch I ensured that my needle went through all layers of the pleats. This holds everything together. I then tacked the end firmly shut so when tying the petticoats nothing comes apart, then whipped stich the other side in place covering my previous stitches and basting thread. Now the waist band is completed.

If you have a dress dummy, use one! If not get the closest person in the room to help you. Either have them wear the petticoat and stand on a chair, or if you trust them with pins, wear the petticoat yourself and stand on a chair. Then you, or your helper can pin the bottom of the petticoat into a hem. To help get a strait bottom, meaure with a strait ruler a number of distance from the floor/chair to the edge of the skirt, if you have the same distance all the way around, you're good to go!

I usually sew this using a running stitch, but if yours are not small enough, use a whip stitch. Another really easy hemming idea that was very common in the 18th century, twill tape! This adds some weight to the bottom of the skirt to help it fall. It also recieves the brunt of the dirt and wear and tear. If you're limited in number of petticoats, its very easy to 'spruce' one up by replacing the worn twill tape with new tape - the difference is amazing! It can be sewn on with the same method as the waist band - with no pleats of course!

Thats all there is to a petticoat... pretty simple but time consuming. If you're going to machine sew, please hand sew the bottom hem. It's one of the few edges seen on a petticoat and really does add the authenticity of your outfit. WEAR MORE THAN ONE! Shilouette is absolutly everything. One year I was in L'bourg Cape Breton and saw a lone woman standing on a hill with the sun behind her, it would have been a beautiful photo, except the wind was blowing, she only had one petticoat on and you could plainly make out the shape of her calves and thighs. In 18th century woman had no shape below the waist, except the bell of their skirts.

More to come later on the remaing journy of the caraco!

Cotton/Linen stays prt 2 - washing

2009-06-09T05:46:00.000-07:00

soo.. These stays are not taking as long as I thought they would - which, in a way is a good thing. In another way, however, it makes me question why I haven't started my new pair!

One side is done but because they were handled so much for the hand sewing they have to be washed.
To wash a set of stays you must ensure what whatever is in your stays for the boning can stand up to water.
Its very simple to wash your stays, actually! Just get your laundry room sink washed out well, fill it 1/2 way with warm water and a little laundry detergent then add your stays. Don't froth them around the tub, gently move and flex them allowing the water to get into the fibres of the the stays and outer lining. This gentle movement should remove any dirt that's landed on them.
rinse your stays off with warm water again, you don't want it hot - if your stays have been pre-washed and dried you shouldn't have an issue but hot water can cause a small amount of shrinkage, especially in canvas and cotton ticking. rinse and repeat.

If your stays are REALLY dirty (you ate PB&J, played in the sandbox AND worked in the garden then came in and worked on your stays - you deserve to be hit soundly on the head and live with your dirty stays) let them soak in the warm water bath for about 30min to an hour and then repeat the gentle movements until your stains are gone.

do NOT ever use bleach. Bleach can damage the wood boning and the protective coating on metal boning. Bleach also weakens the fibres of a material, burning them away - the more often you bleach something the weaker it becomes. Stays are one thing that really do need the strength. bleach may also eat away the hand stitching - ruining your stays and costing you lots of money for a new pair

so - in conclusion, always wear your shift with your stays. not to mention it will be a million times for comfortable with a shift between you and your stays, the shift is easily washed and keep the dirt away from the stays.

hope this helps everyone!

Cotton/linen Stays June 4-? 2009

2009-06-06T14:19:00.000-07:00

Hello all,

I've started making a set of stays and I thought that you might like to see them, and their progress.

They are fully boned and contain 74 German spring steel bones, 48 hand turned button holes, 1.5meters of cotton ticking, 4.4 meters of linen twill tape, .5 meters of light blue linen. This set of stays are front and back lacing with no straps. The customer this is made for works in the UK at a small museum as an interpreter. If it seems like a lot to any of you its for a lady with a larger bust. Her measurements are

bust - 51"

waist - 40"

Center back torso length - 17"

Front Neckline Depth - 14"

bust to waist - 6.5"

Total torso - 40"

Side torso length - 10"

the stays measure
Bust - 38"
Waist - 26"
Center Front length to waist - 12"
Center side length to waist - 9"

The tabs at the bottom are approx. 2" long and rest over the waist to help support up the petticoats and skirts of the gown.

I use 1/4" German steel boning ordered from Farthingales, a really great company in Ontario, Canada. This boning doesn't rust, bend or break - it's very heavy, however.

Cotton thread is all that I use. 100% cotton quilters thread. It's stronger than regular thread and sews almost like its pre-waxed. My button hole thread is 40% polyester/60% cotton - I know, I know its got poly in it... I hit myself all the time for it but its the only thing I can find that sews remotely well.

I received this order quite a few weeks ago but due to circumstances the customer had back surgery and life of course takes over. We've both finally come back to this and have got the measurements and started this project.

I started with drafting the pattern - this took about 3 hours. I use a material with little red dots spaced 1" apart for my draft paper. this can be bought at any local sewing store and works great for drafting patterns.
I made this corset from 3 pcs for each side, L&R. being for a larger busted woman drafting these was a little harder than I had done before. It was a great challenge but it looks like it cam out great - you tell me.

I cut out the pattern and cut out 4 of each piece, 12 pcs of fabric in total. I then sewed 2pcs so I had a base for the boning channels. I now has 6 pcs, 3 L, 3R to put boning in. I drafted the boning channels and penciled them on.

I then machine sewed the channels for the corset. haha I think that waiting for my hubby to get home from work (he was on duty -Army- today... Saturday... I guess I can't complain. Really puts things in perspective when today is June 6th of all days) so he can use the bolt cutters to cut the boning for me.... I can't do it at all! I still have some to cut for the other side...

I've been working on one side more than the other, as you can see by the photo's I've got one side almost done. I then sewed the 3 pcs together Front, center, and back. The blue linen outer shell was then basted on the top along with the linen twill tape.

Then the dubious task of stitching on the cotton twill..... ugh. Anyone that has every sewn on any amount of lacing or twill tape - you share my pain.

Well its all done on one side and I started the button holes. As you can see by the photo's the back is done... 1/4 of the button holes done... I now I might go overboard in the holes, but I have found in my own wearing that stays feel more secure and lace better with a few more holes. I'd rather put one too many that you can skip, than not enough that you're feeling loose in your stays.

My fingers hurt now from all the feverish sewing. I'll have more in a few days when the stays are done and the other side is done.

ooouuuuccchhhhhh. off to try a few more button holes - it will probably turn into 5 then 6.... now I'm just procrastinating :P

Welcome

2009-06-06T12:19:00.000-07:00

Hello Everyone, Thank you so much for checking out my blog! I hope that you're all able to take away some valuable information about what the regular everyday woman would wear in the 18th century. I've only been re-enacting for 3 years now but I've jumped into it head first.

Now, a little bit about me (I know you're all dying to hear about it)

I started sewing when I was 2. Given it was just sitting on my mothers lap, helping her guide the material through the machine. I've loved it ever since.
When I was 4 I made my first pin cushion, a little blue star. My mother used to give me scraps from her projects and I would make doll clothes out of them. Using a few stitches here, a few there and voila, my barbies had clothes! I think my fabric obsession started there, I collected the scraps. I had boxes of them!

When I was 9 I started making teddy bears and stuffed animals for myself and friends. a few years later I began making clothes for myself with and without patterns. I loved experimenting with fabric and seeing what its limits were.

At 16 I worked at a fabric store and grew in my knowledge of fabric types, textures and the proper procedures to work it. When I was 17 I was offered the chance to go to an encampment at the Citadel hill, Halifax Nova Scotia. I loved it. I have been interested in history for quite a while and this was great! I began sewing historical clothing and have had wonderful teachers. They have been a great influence on me, answering questions and helping in research.
I have made clothing for various museums around New Brunswick and Nova Scotia for their interpreters.
I pride myself on historical accuracy make my clothing to be period correct. I focus on the French and Indian war (1754-1763) and the American Revolution war (1775-1783), however, I have made clothing for various other time periods such as regency, Victorian, 1940 etc.
My clothing is made as it would have been in the period. For my 18thc it is all hand sewn and constructed in period correct fashion. I love creating and making beautiful clothes!

I hope you all enjoy it and can give me some valuable feedback.

Also, check out my etsy shop @ www.bonniemissflora.etsy.com

If any of you would like to sign up for my monthly news letter for news about my shop, sales and interesting bits of info, please feel free to send me an e-mail!

Cheers everyone!

Rachel